Experimental Soap Release Log (Reverse Chronological)


20.1C: Citrus, Amber & Musk

Formula 20.1C: This formula has proven to be a winner in lather quality, slickness and post shave.  It performs as well, if not better, than the 17.x but is easier to lather and far less thirsty.   

This soap is heavily scented relative to some of my previous batches.  Sweet orange, grapefruit and pineapple are front and center.  Amber, nutmeg, musk and vanilla give some warmth and depth to the scent.  

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Murumuru Butter, Xylitol, Lanolin, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Fragrance:  Citrus, Amber & Musk

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

20.1B: Bay Rum (Lightly Scented)

Formula 20.1B: This formula has proven to be a winner in lather quality, slickness and post shave.  It performs as well, if not better, than the 17.x but is easier to lather and far less thirsty.  This batch focused on the process rather than the formula.  The batch size increased from 6 to 12 soaps.

The scent is Bay Rum with a blend of Essential Oils and fragrance oils.  I'm a big fan of bay rum and if I have one regret about this batch it's that the scent is light.  The fragrance oil smelled fantastic but the strength of the oils didn't hold up as much as I had hoped.  It is a pleasant, mild bay rum that starts to open up while lathering with top notes of lime and sweet orange.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Murumuru Butter, Xylitol, Lanolin, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Scent Type:  Bay Rum (lightly scented)

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 12 soaps

 20.1A: Bergamot, Sandalwood & Musk

Formula 20.1A Is an effort to reduce the thirstiness of the soap.  Several previous batches wanted a lot of water.  I'm not concerned about hobbyists and enthusiasts...all of you know when a soap is properly hydrated.  But I think a novice wet shaver will under-hydrate a thirsty soap 99/100 times and I don't think that's a good thing.

This is the second batch of 20.1 focused on repeatability of the base with a different scent.  The fragrance is moderate strength with bergamot, sandalwood & musk.

I've added "A" to the name of this base to indicate that it's a separate batch/scent of the 20.1 base.  As this project progresses I'll inevitably experiment more with fragrance than the base.  This gives me a way to differentiate between different experimental batches that share a common soap base.

 

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Murumuru Butter, Xylitol, Lanolin, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Scent Type:  Bergamot, Sandalwood & Musk

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

20.1 Cedar, Clarysage & Bergamot

Formula 20.1 Is an effort to reduce the thirstiness of the soap.  Several previous batches wanted a lot of water.  I'm not concerned about hobbyists and enthusiasts...all of you know when a soap is properly hydrated.  But I think a novice wet shaver will under-hydrate a thirsty soap 99/100 times and I don't think that's a good thing.

This batch has a few formula changes that reduce the thirstiness of the soap.  They turned out better than I had hoped.  I'm really happy with this formula.

I also made some minor process changes to see the impact it had on fragrance retention (the jury is out on whether it made a difference).  The fragrance is Cedar, Clarysage & Bergamot.  

Some of the EO's are a little more expensive than previous batches...sorry for the $0.50 extra in this batch.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Murumuru Butter, Xylitol, Lanolin, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Scent Type:  Cedar, Clarysage, Bergamot

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

19.1: EO Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Cedar, Vanilla

Formula 19.1 is similar to 17.1 & 17.2 but with noteworthy changes to the superfat ratios (the fats leftover after saponification has occurred).  Cupuacu butter has some interesting and beneficial properties so I wanted to create a soap where cupuacu takes center stage in the superfat.  Cupuacu has replaced Shea in this formula with a high overall superfat percentage.

Both lanolin and cupuacu can hold a tremendous amount of water (lanolin 2x its weight, cupuacu 4x its weight).  This is a thirsty soap, ESPECIALLY if you overload the brush.  It loads very easily (deceptively easily) so I recommend loading a little lighter than you normally would.  

Formula 19.1 is scented with 100% EO & CO2 extracts including Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Cedar & Vanilla.  It is lightly scented - slightly spicy and warm.  

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Cupuacu Butter, Xylitol, Jojoba Oil, Murumuru Butter, Fragrance, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Lanolin

Scent Type:  EO: Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Cedar, Vanilla

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

18.1: Nutmeg, Heliotrope, Cedar

Formula 18.1 changed the fatty acid profile of the soap base with the addition of kokum butter.  Kokum butter is higher in oleic acid, known for its conditioning properties.  

Like all Experimental soaps Formula 18.1 is very easy to lather.  The lather is very slick and slightly lighter/more voluminous than other variations.

This batch is moderately fragranced with notes of cinnamon, nutmeg , orange , lemon, star anise, carnation, heliotrope, cedar, musk and benzoin.  It is a light, clean, scent without being overly "spicy".  The powdery floral notes could put this scent in the "barbershop" category.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Glycerin, Tallow, Kokum Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Xylitol, Jojoba Oil, Murumuru Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Cupuacu Butter, Lanolin.

Notes:  Cinnamon, Nutmeg , Orange , Lemon, Star Anise, Carnation, Heliotrope, Cedar, Musk and Benzoin

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

17.3 Hard Water Formula, Barbershop, 4/4/20

Formula 17.3 focuses on improving performance in hard water by adding Tetrasodium ETDA, a common chelator in cosmetics.  Chelators bind with the calcium and magnesium in hard water, preventing these ions from killing lather.  This improves the lather quality and reduces the amount of soap needed.  Chelators also reduce the amount of soap scum caused by lye-based soaps.  

This batch of 17.3 is moderately scented with a clean barbershop fragrance combining powdery floral notes with classic spice notes.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Xylitol, Cupuacu Butter, Lanolin, Murumuru Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium EDTA

Scent Type:  Barbershop:  Cinnamon, Nutmeg , Orange , Lemon, Star Anise, Carnation, Heliotrope, Cedar, Musk and Benzoin

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

 

19.1 EO, 3/28/20

Formula 19.1 is similar to 17.1 & 17.2 but with noteworthy changes to the superfat ratios (the fats leftover after saponification has occurred).  Cupuacu butter has some interesting and beneficial properties so I wanted to create a soap where cupuacu takes center stage in the superfat.  Cupuacu has replaced Shea in this formula with a high overall superfat percentage.

Both lanolin and cupuacu can hold a tremendous amount of water (lanolin 2x its weight, cupuacu 4x its weight).  This is a thirsty soap, ESPECIALLY if you overload the brush.  It loads very easily (deceptively easily) so I recommend loading a little lighter than you normally would.  

Formula 19.1 is scented with 100% EO & CO2 extracts including Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Cedar & Vanilla.  It is lightly scented - slightly spicy and warm.  

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Cupuacu Butter, Xylitol, Jojoba Oil, Murumuru Butter, Fragrance, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Lanolin

Scent Type:  EO: Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Cedar, Vanilla

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

 

18.1 Nutmeg, Heliotrope, Benzoin, 3/13/20

Formula 18.1 changed the fatty acid profile of the soap base with the addition of kokum butter.  Kokum butter is higher in oleic acid, known for its conditioning properties.  

Like all Experimental soaps Formula 18.1 is very easy to lather.  The lather is very slick and slightly lighter/more voluminous than other variations.

This batch is moderately fragranced with notes of cinnamon, nutmeg , orange , lemon, star anise, carnation, heliotrope, cedar, musk and benzoin.  It is a light, clean, scent without being overly "spicy".  The powdery floral notes could put this scent in the "barbershop" category.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Glycerin, Tallow, Kokum Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Xylitol, Jojoba Oil, Murumuru Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Cupuacu Butter, Lanolin.

Notes:  Cinnamon, Nutmeg , Orange , Lemon, Star Anise, Carnation, Heliotrope, Cedar, Musk and Benzoin

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

 

17.2 Inspired by Aventus, 3/17/20

Formula 17.2 is an effort to further improve the post-shave feel of formula 17.1.  The volume of plant butters has increased along with the addition of jojoba oil.  17.2 has the same thick, dense and stable lather of formula 17.1 with a richer and smoother feel. 

The lanolin and cupuacu butter make this soap capable of holding a tremendous amount of water.  The lather performs well at any level of hydration but the slickness especially shines when it is fully hydrated.

This batch was a very short run (4 soaps).  The last batch with this fragrance sold out quickly so I made a small batch for a customer who wanted one.  The fragrance is much more pronounced in this batch with notes of bergamot, apple, pineapple
rose, birch, jasmine, patchouli, oakmoss, musk, and vanilla

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Shea Butter, Fragrance, Xylitol, Murumuru Butter, Cupuacu Butter, Jojoba Oil, Lanolin, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Scent Type:  Inspired by Aventus

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 4 soaps

 

17.2 Unscented, 3/7/20

Formula 17.2 is an effort to further improve the post-shave feel of formula 17.1.  The volume of plant butters has increased along with the addition of jojoba oil.  17.2 has the same thick, dense and stable lather of formula 17.1 with a richer and smoother feel. 

The lanolin and cupuacu butter make this soap capable of holding a tremendous amount of water.  The lather performs well at any level of hydration but the slickness especially shines when it is fully hydrated.

Formula 17.2 is unscented so this Experimental soap is $7.99 for a 4oz tub.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Shea Butter, Fragrance, Xylitol, Murumuru Butter, Cupuacu Butter, Jojoba Oil, Lanolin, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Scent Type:  Unscented

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 6 soaps

 

17.1 Oriental/Spice, 3/3/20

Formula 17.1 focuses on improving the creaminess of the lather and improving post shave feel.  The dense, thick lather is very easy to build.  17.1 has increased plant butters and humectants leading to a smooth post shave feel.  This batch is lightly-moderately fragranced.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Shea Butter, Fragrance, Xylitol, Cupuacu Butter, Lanolin, Murumuru Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Scent Type:  Oriental/Spice

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 5 soaps

 

Free Soap (16.1) Inspired by Aventus, 3/1/20

Formula 16.1 was an attempt to improve initial & residual slickness.  While the slickness of the soap is good, the lather is less dense than I would like.  It's a perfectly serviceable soap for those who can appreciate a lather on the airy side, but I prefer my lather to be more dense.  For that reason this soap didn't make the cut.  It is, however, very easy to lather.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Xylitol, Coconut Oil, Fragrance, Lanolin, Murumuru Butter, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Bentonite Clay

Scent Type:  Dupe, oakmoss & pineapple (very lightly scented)

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 4 soaps

 

15.1 Oriental/Spice, 2/29/20

Formula 15.1 focuses on removing lanolin without giving up lanolin's unique properties.  Cupuacu butter has been added along with other changes to replace lanolin's ability to absorb water, protect and nourish.  This formula has the same easy, rich & protective lather as 14.1 but is suitable for those with lanolin sensitivity.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Xylitol, Fragrance, Coconut Oil, Cupuacu Butter, Murumuru Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Sodium Lactate.

Scent Type:  Oriental/Spice

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 4 soaps

 

14.4 Inspired by Aventus, 2/28/20

Formula 14.1 is very easy to lather despite being a relatively hard soap.  The lather is thick, rich and creamy with great slickness.  Lanolin protects while murumuru butter, shea butter and jojoba oil provide a nice post-shave feel.  The focus of this formula was to improve the creaminess of the lather without sacrificing the ease of lathering.

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Water, Tallow, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Xylitol, Coconut Oil, Lanolin, Fragrance, Murumuru Butter, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Sodium Lactate.

Scent Type:  Dupe

Net Weight:  4oz 

Batch Quantity: 4 soaps